Chablis and Beyond: Environmental Champions

Our greatest concern is climate. Marine Descombe states that we have 60 more years to make a difference. Domaine Passy Le Clou. She is one of the many young wine producers in Burgundy’s northern Chablis region who are part of the growing movement to make environmental sustainability a priority.

This month will be focused on these practices and philosophies in preparation for Earth Day on April 22. Here are a few winemakers who have adopted sustainable practices in Chabliss satellite Appellations. These wineries not only have good intentions, but they also offer great value in the bottle.

Descombes’ family has roots in Beaujolais. However, instead of trying to replicate their efforts up North, she says that Beaujolais serves as an experimental laboratory. We can see what works in Chablis. Although she initially questioned her father’s decision, he was able to see climate change in Beaujolais faster than Chablis. He then gave her his blessing. The familys Beaujolais estate is currently under organic conversion, and Descombe is now applying regenerative agriculture at the estate in Beine, a commune 6 kilometers west of Chablis village, employing tools of nature such as biodiversity-enhancing hedges, construction of an artificial lake to help moderate climate.

DRINK: Domaine Passy Le Clou Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy 2019. Classic fruit with mineral and acid. This wine is tart but has a great texture. It is a beautiful wine.

There are approximately 55 producers among the roughly 55 in Irancy19 kilometers from Beine, third generation vignerons and brothers Gabin and Felix RichouxWe produce Pinot Noir that is distinctive and has a black-cherry emphasis, which is Irancy’s hallmark. This makes it a standout in Burgundy. Felix says that Felix is the one responsible for creating quality. Felix says that Felix was the grandfather who planted the vines and that Felix was the father who made them grow. The conversion to Demeter biodynamic certification has given their wines their own stamp. Gabin says that we are learning to adapt without having to fight Mother Nature. The result? Concentrated wines with both mature flavours and mineral freshness. Felix says that Irancy is a competitive advantage in white wines. Although we are not well-known, we work in a context of a well-known area. [Chablis].

DRINK: Gabin und Felix Richoux Irancy single plot Veaupessiot. Light garnet color, red fruits with hints of raspberry, current, and cranberry. Spicy. You can add a chill to it.

Just southwest of Chablis, in the village Prhy Vincent Wengieris going through a double conversion. After 20 years of selling grapes to ngotiants, he decided to start his own label in 2019. He is passionate about winemaking and sharing his knowledge. Chablisienne is his historic quality cooperative. He sells to them as income insurance, but he’s now starting up a wise strategy due to Chabliss’ weather issues. (This is the second consecutive April damaging freeze hit the area). This strategy is a wise one considering Chabliss’s past two years of the pandemic that cancelled trade activities. His 26 hectares are currently organically converted. Wengier, who is located on the border of Chablis and Bourgogne says he prefers the southern boundary. This allows him to produce rounder whites that push beyond the limit of ripeness. I strive for a normal level of acidity, which is still Chablis’ signature, but is balanced with fruit texture and ripeness.

DRINK: Domaine Vincent Wengier Chablis, 2019. Savory herbal nose with anise, saline and sweet notes. Very pretty and complete with fresh acid and direct fruit.

Saint Bris-le-Vineuex lies just 7 km north of Irancy. It was once a fortified community with a viticulture heritage that dates back to 12 centuries. Jean-Christophe BersanHis father Jean-LouisTheir 22-hectare estate is managed by them. The majority of it was planted by their grandfather, the elder Bersans. The land is in the Bersans’ family since the French Revolution. Their cellars date back as far as the 11th centuries. The Bersans produce regional wines, including Cotes dAuxerrois (Irancy, Saint Bris), Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and Aligote. Jean Christophe from 18 km away says they produce in a Bourgogne-stylenot Chablis style. In 2009, the younger Bersan joined his father and converted to biological agriculture. He said that he is not an extreme: he just wants to do the same thing. He feels deeply connected to the soils where his forefathers worked. The soil is the lifeblood of my wine. He said that you make wine from the soils and not the fruit.

DRINK: Domaine Bersan Bourgogne Cotes dAuxerrois Cuvees Louis Bersan 2019. This is the Jean-Louis grandfather’s favorite variety. It is made from 70 year-old vines-the oldest on our estate. A deeper expression of the variety, with more concentrated yellow apples and round tones. It has a richness that is not too much.