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Australia’s most popular varieties suited to cooler climates – shiraz, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir and sauvignon blanc – may not be as easy to grow as temperatures increase, he adds.
The importance of rainfall is also a key factor in wine production. Since 1970, rainfall in Australia’s south-west from April to October has declined 16 per cent, while in the south-east rainfall has dropped 12 per cent in the same months since the 1990s. Looking ahead, rain events are likely to become more intense, compounded by climate drivers like La Niña, and A climate that can hold 7 percentage points more moisture for each degree of temperature increase
“We would have [weather] events – and this is where they talk about climate change – you expect to see once every 10 years, you might have a bad frost or a really wet year,” says Chambers. “We’re now getting them back to back or more frequently.”
Dr Christopher Davies, CSIRO’s team leader for Agriculture and Food, states that hail, unseasonal rain and temperature variations pose a challenge for winemakers. They can cause botrytis (which turns wine from red to orange), or mildews, which can affect photosynthesis and lower wine quality.
For NSW’s Hunter Valley, analysis from Wine Australia’s Climate Atlas found mean rainfall during growing seasons from 2081 to 2100 is expected to be roughly 55 millimetres more than the 1997-2017 mean. The temperature is expected to rise by 3 degrees during this time. Similar changes are expected to occur in Orange and Mudgee.
By contrast, in Victoria’s wine region of Rutherglen mean rainfall in those growing seasons will be 20 millimetres less than the 1997-2017 mean. The temperature is expected to rise by 3.4 degrees during the same time. The Yarra Valley could see a drop in rainfall of 66 mm and temperatures rising by 3 degrees.
Before 1998, the Chambers’ 25-hectare property was not irrigated at all, relying on annual rainfall. “We’re [now] heavily reliant on irrigation to keep the vines healthy and viable through the whole heat spell.”
Adaptation and mitigation
Dr Liz Waters, Wine Australia’s general manager of Research, Development & Adoption, says the industry has been adapting to a changing climate for more than a decade: “The beauty of wine is that it reflects the area it is grown in and [its] climate.”
The industry’s current focus is to keep evolving to meet new challenges. One strategy is to grow varieties that are more suited for warmer climates.
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Mark Bourne, president of the NSW Wine Industry Association, says that varieties from the Mediterranean are more resilient to extreme heat and can handle drier conditions better. According to Bourne, Italian white wine fiano (from Italy) and tempranillo (from Spain), have become more in demand over the past few years because people are willing pay for them. (Chambers’ vineyard now features tempranillo.)
In NSW’s Central Tablelands region, See Saw Wine co-owner Justin Jarrett has vineyards at 700 metres, 800 metres and 900 metres above sea level to capture a range of different climates. He says that for every 100 meters, the temperature is about 1 to 1.5 degrees higher.
Jarrett and Pip started their winery 25 year ago. They grew sauvignon blanc grapes and riesling grapes from the lower vineyard. However, the same grapes were not able to thrive in the higher vineyard. As the climate has warmed over the years, Jarrett and Pip have decided to stop using the 700-metre vineyard for their white wines. They prefer higher altitudes.
Another notable change is the reduction in harvest season from 8-12 weeks down to six.
Justin Jarrett has seen changes in his vineyard management and how it is grown over the past 25 years.Credit:Monique Lovick
“Harvest time is the moment of joy for all farmers, it is when you look at your year’s work and you go, ‘wow, we’ve made it’,” says Jarrett.
“You think to yourself, ‘if I can maintain this for the next 20 years, it will be very exciting’ … But what you see today can’t be what is happening in 20 years’ time.”
The couple have begun to grow other types of crops in between the grapevines, such turnips and peas, to increase carbon in soil. They are determined to make their business carbon-positive over the next few years.
‘If you’re not sustainable, consumers aren’t going to drink’
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Despite growers’ efforts to introduce new varieties, one key factor remains outside their control: consumer tastes.
Australians aren’t yet familiar with fiano, albarino or tempranillo the way they are with shiraz or sauvignon blanc. Davies says what is particularly interesting about Australians’ drinking habits is they are more drawn to the variety of grape and the region, rather than the winery. This is in contrast to European consumers who care more about the chateau or the vintage.
But the new range of varieties is something the industry is confident consumers – especially younger ones – will embrace with open arms, particularly if they know it’s been made sustainably.
“Consumers actually want us to start making that change. They look at your brand values,” says Battaglene. “If you’re not looking to become sustainable, then consumers aren’t going to drink your product.”
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The national wine industry is currently developing an emissions roadmap that will set achievable reduction targets and help it get there. The sector has a goal of net zero carbon emissions by 2050 but would like to achieve it sooner.
For Chambers, the emphasis on sustainability is much more than just a marketing ploy: “It’s getting to the point [where] no longer is somebody’s word good enough. To back up your comments, you need another certification. People are aware of greenwashing issues.”
Chambers Rosewood is currently working towards obtaining certification. Chambers claims that this is a formalization and formalization of practices he already has in place.
Jarrett for his part remains optimistic about the future wine industry. “In Australia, the agriculture industry has been a great adapter and I think we will continue to be,” he says. “We’ve got these [climate] problems … but what matters is what we are going to do about it.”
When asked what his favourite wine is, he laughs, asking: “Which is your favourite child?”
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