A fully-cycled aquarium that can provide water parameters for pet fish that are conducive to their health and longevity
A Florida gar enjoying the water in a cycled aquarium. This is ideal for its health, and longevity.
I often heard from friends that their pet fish mysteriously died within a week of being brought home.
These new hobbyists often claimed that they had done the proper way of feeding the fish and used the right filter and stone bubbler in order to increase the oxygen levels.
They may have forgotten to run the nitrogen cycle before they put the fish in the aquarium. This is the most likely scenario.
You will need to first set up an aquarium that is already in use or has been cycled.
An aquarium’s nitrogen cycle should be completed in five to six week before any fish are placed in it.
Only a fully-cycled aquarium can provide fish with the right water parameters and help increase its longevity.
What is a nitrogen cycle?
In a functioning nitrogen cycling, colonies of bacteria would naturally form during the process. They would convert ammonia into nutrients, then into nitrites.
Nitrosomonas bacteria is responsible for turning ammonia into nitrogen, while nitrobacter bacteria converts nitrites and nitrites.
Fish can be killed by nitrites and ammonia even in low levels. However, nitrates can cause death in fish. A high level of nitrates is an indicator that a partial water change may be required.
Aquariums are always stocked with ammonia. It is made from uneaten fish feed and other organic matter, including waste from the fish.
The fish could become extremely ill from high-level nitrogen-hydrogen compounds absorption. This could make it difficult for them to eliminate it from their bodies. Over time, the accumulation could cause serious damage to their skin and scales as well as other internal organs.
This would eventually lead it to its end.
Checks and countermeasures
The API freshwater testing kits are vital for the entire cycle.
In a natural environment, ammonia can be diluted by large bodies of water and kept at a level that is safe for all living organisms, including plants.
However, an aquarium enclosed is a totally different setting.
A pet owner can purchase test kits for freshwater and saltwater to check the water parameters. This will depend on the type of fish available at most fish shops.
These test kits are used to determine the levels of ammonia and nitrites in the water during the cycling period.
Each kit comes with its own instructions. For API testing, the safest level for ammonia is 0 parts per Million (ppm). Even a concentration of 2ppm could cause death for fish.
A reading of between 10 and 40 ppm for nitrates is considered safe for fish. Anything higher than 80 ppm can be toxic.
To reduce the amount of nitrates in the aquarium and to reduce water change frequency, you can add ammonia-removing plant to the tank. One such plant is the pothos (the Devils Ivy or epipremnum ausreum).
These plants would use the nitrates in water to nourish their growth. It’s a win-win situation.
Another way to encourage the growth of anaerobic microorganisms in the aquarium’s bottom layers is to set a deep sand bed (15cm) that converts nitrates and nitrogen gas.
However, this old-fashioned way can cause a lot of financial trouble. To achieve the minimum aquarium bed depth of 120cmx45cmx45cm, you will need to purchase at least 130kg Aquarium-Specified Sand.
The process
Before you fill up the aquarium with water, make sure it has the correct filtration and substrates.
You can choose to use either a fishless or fish-in cycling method. The former would require the fish to be exposed to high levels of ammonia and/or nitrites during the process.
Personally, I prefer the fishless method. It produces the same outcome as the fish-in method.
The first step in setting up an aquarium is to place the appropriate-sized filter system, gravel, air-pump and other necessary equipment.
After filling your aquarium with tapwater, use the conditioner you prefer to get rid any chlorine and chloramine.
Next, add natural food. It can be a piece or a bit of prawn. It would take approximately a day for organic matter to begin to decay and become ammonia.
We wait for a day or so. The first nitrifying bacteria will start to colonise the aquarium. As they multiply, they turn ammonia into nitrogen.
This could be continued for several weeks. It is important to replenish the aquarium with fish food every so often during this time in order to feed the beneficial bacteria.
The waiting game continues from this point. It will take several weeks and, obviously, a lot of patience for the Nitrites to be converted by the Nitrobacter.
For water nitrites and other nitrates levels, it is recommended that tests be performed after three to 4 weeks.
It is quite normal to notice spikes in ammonia during the initial stage. Nitrites are increasing, so ammonia should decrease.
Give it five to six weeks. After that, the aquarium water should read zero ppm ammonia, zero ppm nitrite, and above 20 ppm nitrate.
Once the water has been changed, the fish can be placed in the aquarium.
Accelerating things
To speed up the cycle, you can use filter media taken from an aquarium.
It is not surprising hobbyists are not able to wait six weeks. Therefore, there are hacks. One of the most popular hacks is to transfer or reuse parts of filter media or gravel that are already in an aquarium.
A filter medium is often made of clay or plastic. It provides a good environment for beneficial bacteria to flourish.
It gives the bacteria a headstart to start their colonisation and kick off nitrogen cycle almost immediately by using media from an aquarium that is already established.
The amount of media used will determine the timeline. It may take several days or even a week to complete the cycle.
Another option is to take the sponge filter or filter floss out of an aquarium that is already established and rinse it in a container with aquarium water.
You can also use the substrates of an aquarium that is already established to speed up the cycle process, as they contain a high concentration beneficial bacteria.
It is important to use the existing aquarium water, as regular tapwater can contain chlorine, which can kill beneficial bacteria immediately.
The murky water from the filter’s rinsing is then added to the aquarium’s water.
The downside to this method is that murky water can be visually unattractive in a new aquarium, at most for a few days.
After that, the water should have become clear and the aquarium should now be safe for your pet fish.
