New Fashion Law Holds Fashion Houses Responsible for Social & Environmental Impact

By SARAH HUFFMAN

The Act on Fashion Coalition, an association of fashion and sustainability focused organizations, held a recent virtual press conference and panel discussion on the Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act (a new law).S7428/A8352). The new bill is currently in committee and sponsored by State Sen. Alessandra Biaggi (S.D. 34), and Assemblywoman Dr. Anna Kelles, (A.D.125).

If the bill is passed, all apparel and footwear manufacturers and retailers with global annual receipts above $100 million, doing business in New York State would be required map their supply chains, disclose any environmental and social impacts, as well as set binding targets to reduce these impacts. To reduce the impact of the fashion industry’s activities within the Paris Climate Agreement bounds, there are science-based targets.

The coalition includes New Standard Institute, Natural Resources Defense Council, (NRDC), Environmental Advocates New York and New York Communities for Change. Ferrara Manufacturing, EarthDay.org and Oceanic, Uprose are also members.

Biaggi, who is a representative of parts of The Bronx, and Westchester, stated that she has been passionate about fashion law issues since her time in law school. In fact, Barbara Kolsun, professor of fashion law at Cordozo Law School and the senator’s former professor and mentor in this field, also attended the press conference and spoke to the importance of the issue of sustainability.

Kolsun stated that the time is right for bold legislation to be introduced, starting right in the heart of the fashion industry. Our multi-million-dollar, trillion-dollar industry that employs so many New Yorkers has been and should continue being at the forefront of finding solutions to these problems.

Biaggi stated that she first met NSI, an organization that uses data in order to address the issue of sustainability within the fashion industry, approximately a year before she began work on the new legislation. We examined issues on which many industry leaders have been working. [on]She said that she was looking for ways to improve labor practices and reduce carbon emissions.

The bill’s advocates say apparel and footwear are responsible for an under-acknowledged part of global greenhouse gas emissions. Fashion retailers and manufacturers operate without regulation, which is a significant advantage over other polluting industries like the auto sector. This has created a global race for the bottom where companies with the least concern for the environment and workers have the most competitive edge.

Maxine Bdat (founder and director of NSI) stated that the fashion bill is a New York law, but it has global reach as it applies to all fashion businesses that have a global sales revenue of more than $100 million. The fashion act, which is a bill that addresses climate change, is crucial to end the fashion industry’s race to the bottom and stop labor exploitation. New York will be a fashion leader in the 21st century if it does this.

According to Bdat the fashion industry’s carbon footprint is between 4-8 percent and 8.6 percent while the overall carbon footprint for the United States is around 11 percent. It requires companies to meet science-based targets. This means that the pace of reduction will be comparable to the Paris goals. [Climate] Agreement, Bdat said. Anything less than that means the fashion industry is not operating within its legal limits.

Kelles, who is a representative of Tompkins County in the southwest Cortland County said that global energy and greenhouse gases emissions must be cut by 50% by 2030. That’s just eight years away, Kelles stated. This will prevent the devastating effects of climate changes. She said it was crucial that we ensure that the industry adheres to ethical standards in terms of labor and environmental sustainability while simultaneously ensuring a thriving statewide clothing industry.

Kelles had previously explained, at a previous event, that the fashion industry was responsible surprisingly for between 4 and 8.6 percent of global greenhouse emissions. She had been allowed to operate unchecked under regulations that, if implemented would curb pollution as also the use of child labor and forced or exploited labor.

Bdat stated that the act sets a standard in operation, which ensures companies that are committed to sustainability do not face disadvantages over companies that may not be as sustainable. Bdat said that this part of the bill will encourage collaboration between companies to help finance energy efficiency upgrades and alternative energy sources. Companies are required to conduct mandatory due diligence regarding the implementation of social and environmental policies under the fashion act.

Companies that do not adhere to the fashion act’s standards may be subject to fines of up to 2% of their revenues. Proceeds from such enforcement will be donated to disadvantaged communities. Biaggi said that New York, as one of the most important fashion and business capitals in the world, has a moral responsibility for reducing the environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry.

The press conference featured members of the coalition and important figures from the worlds fashion and sustainability. Gabrielle Ferrara Manufacturing’s chief executive officer, spoke about the company’s policy that social and environmental sustainability should go hand in hand.

Tom Chappell, cofounder of Toms of Maine (a personal care product company) and Ramblers Way (a wool clothing company), shared their support for the act as well as his experiences with sustainability in manufacturing. Mazeda Uddin is the founder and CEO at SAFEST, which provides guidance and job training to south Asian immigrants in Bangladesh.

Rachel Rivera is a climate activist and a member New York Communities for Change. This organization focuses on creating positive change in low and medium-income communities. She also discussed her experience with Hurricane Sandy and her work in environmental activism. Elizabeth Yeampierre (climate activist, executive director of UPROSE) spoke about her organization’s work in promoting sustainability through local organizations, and her experiences with certain health disparities and how this can be connected to climate change.

Other supporters of the bill include Stella McCartney, British fashion designer, animals rights activist, who spoke at a previous event on the bill, saying, “To be truly modern, people must initiate and embrace change.” She added, “Fashion is one of the most harmful industries to the planet. Collectively, it is vital that the fashion industry commits now to taking measurable actions towards reducing our environmental impact in order to create a more sustainable, ethical, mindful future. The Fashion Act is one example of a step toward a better, more controlled future. Our duty is clear, and now more than ever, we need to make changes to the way in which we do business.”

Kelles thanked the speakers and other members of the coalition who put in the effort that she believed would make the fashion act a success. The industry is well-prepared and there are some old champions here today who are taking clear steps not only to acknowledge but also make positive changes. [a]Global, critical industry that literally puts clothes and shapes cultures on our backs. It embodies our inner self, which is what I consider the most important aspect of it all.

Thanks to a number of documentaries, “The True Cost” and “Alex James: Slowing Down Fast Fashion,” the world has gradually become more aware of the impact of fashion on human rights, on the economies of lesser-developed nations, and on the environment. Acclaimed author, Naomi Klein, first wrote about the issue in her 1992 bestseller, “No Logo.”

Outside of the luxury fashion brands, Swedish clothing company, H&M, has, for several years now, operated its own in-house, sustainability program to offset the impact of its manufacturing on climate, offering deals to customers who return fabrics / old clothes to their stores, and later selling “new” recycled clothes.

An extract from the store’s website reads, “Let’s face it. Although we love fashion, it has a huge effect on the environment. The fashion industry must change and someone has the responsibility to do so. So, let’s be that someone. Let’s see how much more efficiently we can collect and recycle unwanted clothes on a global scale. Let’s find out how little waste we can create. Let’s remove all unnecessary plastic. Let’s take away any hazardous chemicals. Let’s accelerate innovation of sustainable materials.”

Bono, the lead singer of U2, was co-founder of Red Campaign which engages people and businesses in the fight against AIDS. Hewson and Ali Hewson launched Edun, a fashion company. reportedThe New York Times and other outlets reported the news at the time. Renzo Rosso, philanthropist, founder of Diesel clothing group, formed a partnership to sell fashion products made in Africa under the Diesel+Edun brand.

The Body Shop, a seller of cosmetics and beauty products in Brighton, England was established in 1976 by Dame Anita Roddick. She died in 2007. Through Roddick’s passion for the planet and campaigning for numerous causes, The Body Shop was always more than just a beauty brand. According to the company’s website, the products were never tested on animals and they didn’t exploit anyone in their making. They worked with farmers and suppliers fairly and helped communities thrive through the Community Fair Trade program.

Alejandra pollak, director of operations at NSI concluded the session on Fashion Act. She stated that it was a new way to hold fashion industry accountable for its environmental and workforce claims.

Pollak thanked Biaggi, Kelles, and Assembly Members Harvey Epstein and Robert Rodriguez for introducing the act in both legislative chambers during this legislative session. He also thanked Assembly Members Jo Anne Simon, Jo Anne Simon and Richard N. Gottfried for their support.

We are aware that there is a long road ahead. However, we are grateful to be working alongside you all to grow our alliance and build the public support and political will necessary to pass the fashion bill in this session.

Meanwhile, Bronx Fashion WeekThis year, the event will take place in person on May 7, 2022.

*Sle Moloney contributed to this story.