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The Lahaul region of Himachal Pradesh is experiencing record-breaking temperatures this year. This threatens to disrupt its traditional way and agricultural practices.
Even the mountains are feeling the heat this summer as the plains of north India experience a scorching summer. The mercury is rising in an unusually high way in Lahaul, a mountainous area in Himachal Pradesh, located 700 km from Delhi. This was once a refuge for people fleeing the heat.
Lahaul’s region exports between 100-150 million and more than 100 crore of agricultural products annually. Its farmers also have the highest per capita incomes. However, even a few degrees can cause havoc on agriculture and water resources.
I set out to discover how terrible things really were. My car crossed the Atal Tunnel towards Lahaul at midnight. As we drove past Sissu, we were surrounded by the shimmering Chandra river, huge snow-covered mountains, and starry nights. Finally, we reached Keylong.
From potatoes, peas to cauliflower and even exotic crops like lettuce, iceberg, etc, can be found in Lahaul, and that too ‘off-season’. Their profits come from ‘off-season’ supply of vegetables to the plains. However, they used to grow buckwheat (rajma), wild local apple and an apricot as well as local vegetables (turnip root, beetroot)
One of the early agrarian influences was the British missionaries who set up camp during this period. Some credit potatoes and a few varieties (i.e. apples, peaches, etc.) of fruits to them. Others credit newer barley seeds. The introduction of resistant potatoes and other horticulture crops such as peas, cauliflower, and other crops made it possible to make major changes in the 1970s. This high-altitude region was also a seed-breeding centre because of its good greyish-brown soil, and pest-free environment.
Farm Hopping with Dorje
Although I was at over 12,000 feet, I was still a little breathless. But the day started early. I met Dorje Angrup and Kunga, middle-aged Keylong farmers, among apple trees and cow manure. Devi Singh was tending to cauliflower saplings. His poly-house housed over 15,000 cauliflower, broccoli, and other exotic vegetables. The saplings looked well-prepared, so I asked why they were out in the fields.
“Our region is facing water scarcity, due to less snowfall. Because it has been dry for a few decades, people have started agricultural work since February. Keylong and other areas had snow until April but now all that is changing very fast,” Kunga said.
But what about snow and agriculture? I asked him to explain. “Without snow on the fields there is no moisture in the soil. We depend on the snowfall to water our fields. They are all drying up. They have at least shrunk 40 percent since I was a child,” he added.
Dorje, associated with a local young farmers’ organisation, decided to accompany me. It was a calm, sunny day. Farmers were busy tilling and getting the fields ready for potato sowing. We enjoyed the noon sun while we sat down and sweated under the dried willows. The break was enjoyed by fifteen women. We got them to talk.
“I am over 65-year-old now. Since I was a youngster, I worked in agriculture. Lahaul was different back then. There was more snow in the winter than we had today, and the growing season was shorter. Now, there is too much heat, and water is drying out. If things go on like this, Lahaul’s agriculture will change forever,” Yangdum said.
Lahaul’s diet has also changed. Atal Tunnel makes it possible to eat easy. The area’s new staples are wheat and rice.
After a quick dinner, Dorje and I went to meet Charan Das 65-year-old farmer from Goushal (about 5-8 km from Keylong). We sat in a tea shop and drank sugary tea while discussing agriculture and changing times.
“Snowfall has drastically decreased in our lifetimes. Global warming is affecting all areas. Right now, it should have been below 2ft snow. Look at plants, they are flowering faster too,” Das said.
“None of the things on your ThaliThese are all from here. Even buttermilk is made from Jersey cows. Indigenous cows are gone. Everything has changed around here,” he said.
Dorje, who finished his cup of tea, added: “Now there are also newer diseases like diabetes, cancer and heart problems. People are also changing with the climate it seems.”
We found Arun Rana (also a farmer) further into Goushal village. He said, “Each year 70 lakh vehicles cross the Atal Tunnel. The cars and tourists increase the pollution in the area.”
We spent a few days traveling from Darcha to Keylong, visiting villages and asking questions about agriculture and climate. The story of the fallow fields was as interesting as the people. The soil moisture was low because glaciers were retreating and many places such as Darcha, Sunam, Tandi villages, etc. reported water shortages. Some farmers claimed that they received 50 percent less water this season for their farming. To verify their claims, we drove past Tandi’s Chandra-Bhaga river confluence toward Mouling village. Vrish was a middle-aged farmer transitioning slowly into organic farming. We met him there. Why?
“The agri-chemicals are deteriorating the soil and adding to the climate problem. Our crops yields are going down as the soil doesn’t have any strength left. Each year, the soil’s water retention capacity decreases. Water is limited and exotic vegetables require more than traditional varieties. Our water supply is becoming increasingly contaminated by pesticides, etc. With organic farming we can save the soil and also our micro-climate,” Vrish explained.
It was refreshing to hear Vrish, but we had to go to our next stop — the local agri-input and seed shop in Keylong. Prem Singh, the owner of the shop, was wearing a mauve top. I asked him about the links between climate change, industrial agriculture emissions. First, he was sceptical, and after thinking replied: “We know the chemicals are bad for our environment. This area must have used approximately 1,500 litres pesticides. However, we advise buyers to reduce their use. Most farmers also prefer organic manure.”
Dorje had driven me nearly 200km in just a few days. Before we headed home, we stopped at Kiyor to meet Chetan Singh, a seasoned farmer. As the tea was being served, I asked him about the future for the area. Will Lahual become another victim of climate change? Singh replied, “If we don’t pay attention now, first our water will finish and then that day may not be far when people of our areas will have to leave and find work in other areas. We all need to wake up, or else Lahaul will be devoured.”
After we had finished our tea, it began to drizzle. I prayed for rain before leaving Dorje for Keylong. On the return trip, it became obvious that Lahaul is on the brink of climate catastrophe. If the water runs dry, this paradise will be gone forever.
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The writer is an independent analyst in agri-policy and was previously the director of Policy and Outreach, National Seed Association of India.
